When do acers lose their leaves

How do I say thanks? I am in the middle of cleaning the greenhouse that I use - its a big greenhouse Add a photo Add another photo Add another photo. Grows on You is a community for gardeners. Record the plants in your garden, share your photos, and make like-minded friends. Previous question « Is it possible to successfuly grow a cordon apple tree on a north facing fence.

Prune out dead or diseased branches when you see them to limit exposure to the healthy parts of the tree. Plant Japanese maples in a location that is sheltered from high winds and full sun to prevent sunburn or broken branches.

Jill Kokemuller has been writing since , with work published in the "Daily Gate City. Kokemuller is an authorized substitute teacher and holds a Bachelor of Arts in English from the University of Iowa. Home Guides Garden Garden Care. By Jill Kokemuller Updated December 14, Related Articles. However, it is likely that an insect pest has attacked your tree in a punctual and localized manner, or, if the branch in question is exposed, that a strong wind has dried out the branch and caused the fall of its leaves.

Many gardeners are thinking of buying an acers, with the idea of setting up a small Japanese space or just to enjoy the fall show offered by the remarkable changing colors of this heather shrub.

However, it is important to know that the acers is known to be fragile, especially in the first years of cultivation. Among the diseases that affect it, the most common is probably that of dry leaves. What is the cause and how can it be remedied? The acers is probably one of the most delicate shrubs to cultivate, even if it does not require much maintenance. Placed in unsuitable conditions, its leaves begin to dry from the tips and then gradually curl.

The whole leaf eventually turns brown before falling off. The entire foliage can thus fall which is common on trees undergoing a first repotting , and then reappear very gradually thereafter. In other cases, the leaves take on their autumn livery prematurely, sometimes even in the middle of summer! The most common mistake is to expose a freshly planted potted acers to the full sun, on the south side of the garden or terrace; whereas this shrub likes itself a contrario in cooler atmospheres!

The Acer fears a too strong light and a stifling heat that will burn its foliage. Find a place for it in the shade, under the cover of a large tree for example, or, if necessary, in semi-shade the acers will then benefit from thick shade all afternoon. On the soil or substrate side, offer a mixture of garden soil and heather soil. All Acers — palmatum and japonicum: both are commonly referred to as Japanese maple — appreciate acid soils but fear limestone soils.

More information on this disease is available on the "Hedges" section of this website. I had bought a foot tall Japanese Acer Sangokaku 2 weeks back and placed the pot in the house during daytime and at night time in the porch in order to protect it from frost. However, a few of its leaves started to wilt. I have fed it with Miracle Grow crystals diluted in water.

Today when I moved the plant a clump of leaves fell off. I don't know where I am going wrong as this is my first Acer plant. Please advise me on watering, feeding and position to place the pot in which I intend to grow. Your Japanese Acer would be far better placed outdoors in a sheltered position Lily and I am sure that it is the contrasting temperatures which is causing your Acer to lose its leaves.

You will need to keep an eye on the watering throughout the summer months and feed occasionally with a balanced liquid fertiliser. Hopefully your plant will start to grow both new shoots and leaves. We have a 14yr old acer which has developed grey blotches on the main branches.

Could you advise what they are as the tree has started to bloom and we are afraid to apply any sprays. The growth Eioleen on your Acer tree is most probably lichen with also some algae growth which will not do any serious harm to your tree. This is a very common problem in the winter months especially in very damp and mild conditions and can also be troublesome if your tree is growing in a very shady spot in the garden. My only concern with using a tar oil winter wash is that it will also kill off natural predators and if your tree is not completely dormant due to the recent mild winters the winter wash can damage the buds.

I am afraid that the only other alternative is to gently brush off the lichen growth during the summer months. We have recently moved and have a really lovely acer in our garden which is about 8ft tall we don't know what kind it is but we have to move it, could you please advise us how wide and how deep approx we will need to dig do get a big enough rootball.

If at all possible Maria you would be far better waiting until the autumn time before transplanting your Acer Tree as the tree will then be dormant. If you cannot wait until autumn time I would suggest that you lift your tree as soon as possible before it is actively growing. As the tree is eight feet tall you will need to try and dig out a very large root ball and the chances of success will depend on the size of the root ball that you can physically remove.

However if it is possible to get a small digger into your garden you will find that it will be much easier to lift out your tree and will ensure that you get a large root ball of soil.

It is important to keep an eye on the watering of your tree during the summer months and you will need to stake your tree to give support until new roots are established. My mum has an Acer, in a large pot not sure what kind but it seems to be out-growing it , could you please tell me when we can either re-pot it or move it, should it be at a certain time of year?

Thank you. If you are careful when re-potting you could re-pot your mother's Acer now Daniel. However personally I find the best time for re-potting Acers is early Springtime before they have come into leaf. Acer prefer a slightly acid soil so you will need to use a ericaceus compost. I have an Acer, which is outside. I have been told it has Mealy Bugs on it. I have used Provado Ultimate Bug Killer twice but it hasn't made any difference, if anything it seems worse. Is there anything else it could be instead?

Or is there something else I could use to clear the problem up, as this plant has been with me for sometime and I don't want to lose it. Mealy Bug is problem pest Heather on a wide range of plants and you will find that in time Provado Ultimate Bug Killer will control the pest but what you do need to do is give your Acer a thorough spray with the insecticide and spray to run off.

The time to spray is early morning or late evening - do not spray during the day or in the midday sun as this will cause scorching of the leaves.

There are other insecticides which you can use such a Liquid Derris Plus - which is a natural insecticide - and also Spray Day Insecticide. The important factor is whichever product you use you need to give your Acer a thorough spray to disturb the aphids which are enclosed in a cocoon. My Acer and Magnolia Susan outdoors have a white glue-like substance on them with disc shaped creatures stuck to it. I looked up mealy bug and I'm not sure if it is this as they are outside.

I blasted them off with the hosepipe and the white stuff like marshmallows was all stuck to the fence. These are not on the leaves but on the branches and trunks. What could it be please? My magnolia is 15 years old and never ailed a thing although we moved to this garden two years ago and I brought most of my shrubs with me.