Where to buy flame sensor for furnace

Sensors go bad when the ceramic insulator cracks, otherwise they can be sanded endlessly. It would be easier to believe if the coating we sand off was visible in some way. The low voltage that is transiting the flame sensor through the flame is easily blocked by the invisible residue that builds up on the sensor. The vast majority of flame sensors we sell replace good sensors in spite of us recommending against it. There are no internal components, it is a metal rod mounted in a ceramic insulator.

I am happy to sell you a standby replacement sensor if you want one. You are much more likely to need a safety limit, a pressure switch, a capacitor, a draft inducer motor or a blower motor over the life of your furnace.

Call us at if you would like us to ship you one. Call the for free personalized help in diagnosing your symptoms. Have your model number when you call. My flame sensor has been cleaned a few times over the last seven years but this last incident needed replacing. Before replacing the flame sensor my furnace would try to turn on in intervals of three.

With flame sensor replaced the furnace works but now repeatedly turns on and fulfills three cycles same interval anount. I am not certain what your symptoms are from your description. I only can cut it off by the switch on the wall.

I guess the control switch. What makes it not go off and is this expensive. How much please? You have not given enough information that I can be of help. I have a York furnace, keeps shutting on and off.. It is exhibiting the classic symptoms of a flame sensor problem. I would make certain the flame is impinging on the flame sensor. I would check the furnace control board has a good ground.

I would check all the safeties connected to the control board. If everything checks good, that would lead me to believe the control board is bad. My gas furnace would cycle endlessly and not start. The hot igniter would come on, the exhaust blower would come on, then the main burner gas would come out and ignite, then about 2 seconds later, it would go out, shut down intentionally by some valve. Then the cycle would start again. I took out what must have been this flame sensor, and, even though it did not look very dirty, brightened it up a little with a green scotchbrite pad, wiped it off, then put it back.

Yes, It sounds like you did fix it. Flame sensors acquire an invisible coating over time which can block the flow of a very low voltage from the sensor through the flame and back to the control board. The board shuts off the gas whenever it does not detect the voltage. Good job! Jim How about this I have an Air Pro bgua coleman and have just recantly replaced the main fan motor. After the succsesful repalcement, the furnce would light then go out also showing the false flame sensor code.

Now I have a new flame sensor and the same old problem. So what would you say is my next coures of action short of an axe should be?

You have been doing the things that make sense. If it was my furnace, I would check that all the safeties have continuity, the flame is impinging on the flame sensor, and I would make certain the control board has a good ground. If all those check out, then I would replace the control board. My furnace ignites and instantly goes out it cycles 3 times before stopping completely… cleaned sensor still not working even changed air filter please help no money 66 degrees now and dropping.

I would make certain the control board has a good ground and then I would locate the wiring diagram on the indoor unit. Furnace control boards often have flashing lights that indicate error codes which are explained on the wiring diagram.

If there are no error codes to follow, I would find the safeties shown on the diagram and check them for continuity. Any open safety is bad and should be replaced. You can take your wiring diagram to the nearest U-FIX-IT store for personalized help on how to proceed with the troubleshooting. We have Benton bg burner..

I have replaced electrodes and controller and checked ground. But problem not solved…please help. Unfortunately, I have no answer for you.

Oil burners are not a product commonly sold here in Texas. I have two boys in college right now very expensive and money is tight. Have a great day! Thanks Jim!! I got home tonight and my thermostat read 58 degrees when it was set to I tried resetting it at the fuse box to no avail. I came across your helpful article and with only removing 3 screws and about 10 minutes time my heater is working again!

You saved me a lot of stress, time and money. Thank you so much! Last summer I had a leak in the ac condensate tray. It caused the fan to turn on randomly but the ac always worked. In the fall it was time for heat and nothing. Not even the draft motor would come on.

I replaced the board only to find that the problem still existed. A replacement of the gas valve corrected the issue for a while. I now have chronic random instances of the burner either not lighting or lighting and immediately shutting down. Sometimes If I cycle power, or even remove the igniter and flame sensor and then reinstall no cleaning the systems works fine for a while.

Sometimes hours, sometimes days but has always come back. I am stumped. I have even added second ground lines to see if that would help. No change so I removed it. Random malfunctions are the most difficult to troubleshoot and there is no easy answer here.

Troubleshooting can only take place while the system is working incorrectly. Use the wiring diagram and a volt meter to start the process. Is the low voltage system producing the correct voltage? Is the control voltage present at the gas valve when it fails to light? I have same cycling problem but have no flame sensor.

Schematic says i have a pilot sensor but the only thing going to it is the ignition wire. No lo v wire at all. Call the store nearest you for more personalized help. We will need to see your schematic to get you started in the right direction.

After cleaning flame sensor, checking ground, board connection, exhaust for blockage and none of that fixed it. We found the exhaust pipe hanger was poorly hung and was working its way out and this caused the exhaust to droop and hold condensation which would shut the unit off also. It seems to be fixed now. Your experience is the reason I always fix whatever is not right, even when it seems unrelated to the problem I am trying to solve.

The seemingly unrelated little thing has often proved to be the cause of the larger problem. I have cleaned the flame sensor and I have even checked the sensor appears to be working.

Your description is the classic symptom of a dirty flame sensor. If all your safeties check good and the control board ground is good. You may have a bad control board. Thanks for your info. Simple fix and very easy to do. Glad I found you and saved some money.

Happy new year. Thank you for your service to the USA! I truly appreciate the advice on this issue. I followed your directions and all is working fine now. Thank you again! Woke up for Christmas only to find our house was 63 degrees on a 30 degree day. I knew there would not be much luck in getting a repair man out today without spending huge dollars. Found this article online and performed the repair. I was laying in bed 30 minutes ago noticing that the burner was kicking off after about seconds of burning, did a quick Google search, removed, sanded and reinstalled the flame sensor and all is well now.

Oh thank goodness for the Internet!!!. Hi Jim, Let me begin by saying Thank You for your military service! I have a Luxaire gas furnace that is giving me fits! There are 4 burners that are to have a blue flame once the igniter heats the gas. Only 2 of mine light. The one directly behind the igniter and the one beside it. The other two will not light unless I clean the flame sensor which I have done a half dozen times in a week!

Used sand paper and emory cloth. This one has been shined like a mirror and will only allow one or 2 cycles before the furnace shuts down again! Can you explain? I have a Lennox furnace and my flame sensor is connected to a metal pipe and another piece it does not just come out like I seen in videos. I can take the screw out and clean the top of the sensor but like I said its attached to other pipes and things. Any suggestions would help. My furnace comes on for 1 minute then shuts down.

Thank you. The ignition board delivers V AC low amp through the flame sense rod. The flame rectifies the AC voltage to DC voltage the flame is a terrible conductor and only conducts half the sine wave changing the AC to DC voltage and the ignition board is looking for microamps through the ground.

I too had the same symptoms and after spending over three hundred dollars on a new sensor, control board, and igniter all of which left me with the same problems. The culprit happened to be a Robin decided to build a nest in the chimney stack. Once I cleared it out the heater fired up and worked fine. Thanks for the story. The Robin definitely set up a difficult to diagnose scenario.

I admire your tenacity. You won! Kept trying to light it now that u mentioned the birds nest I realized it was the snow on the roof not allowing airflow, unfortunately before reading this flames shot out in my face and almost blew me through the wall.

Thank you all so much for your input on the internet to help others! Vent pipe from outside for fresh air not blocked. Gas furnace. It started about a year ago, cleaned flame sensor — was fine for 3 months. Then became worse. About every other month, the flame sensor must be cleaned.

Michigan house. Thoughts, comments — much appreciated. I apologize for the delay. As you are painfully aware, your malfunction is going to be something out of the ordinary. You have been thorough in following all possibilities as they were posited to you. I do not have an easy solution for you. It appears from your narrative that cleaning the sensor corrects the problem when it occurs. This would lead me to look for something that changed in your house at the time your problem began.

I would be especially suspicious of anything that changed the composition of the combustion air. Pool chemicals, cleaners, paint, scented candles etc…; anything that might produce fumes that could be sucked into the combustion air.

I suspect the problem is external to the furnace and will appear to be totally unrelated. Something changed after 7 years of trouble free operation.

The mystery to solve is — what changed? I wish I had something more definite for you. I hope this helps. Please let me know what the problem is when you find it. I would like to know.

I have a lennox furnace. The furnace burners kick on and run for a couple minutes and then shut down. The ignitor re-lights and the flame kicks on again. Then, the flame shuts down again after about a minute.

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It is likely that your flame sensor problem can be fixed with a simple cleaning. The easiest way to do this is to rely on your preferred HVAC technicians in Murrieta to clean the sensor during your regular furnace tune-ups. First, shut off the power to the furnace and locate the sensor in the burner assembly.

It is a thin, typically bent, metal rod placed in front of the furnace flame stream. Once located, use the driver or wrench to remove the screw and access the sensor. During routine furnace tune-ups and check-ups, your HVAC technicians will troubleshoot your flame sensors to ensure proper performance and safe functionality, as well as prevent more serious damage to the unit. Action is noted as one of the most reliable HVAC and solar companies in its areas.